All islands have their folklore, but few can compare with Robinson Crusoe, whose name alone recalls the fictional castaway modeled after a real-life privateer marooned here in the 1700s.
This remote Chilean outpost, 667km (414 miles) west of Valparaíso in the South Pacific, has, at various times, served as a base for marauding pirates, a prison for Chilean independence fighters, a WWI battleground, and the site of a multimillion-dollar treasure hunt.
Of course, that’s to say nothing of its unique flora, two-thirds of which is found nowhere else on Earth, making Robinson Crusoe a veritable Galápagos of endemic plants.
Lovers of exotic shrubs, quirky history, epic hikes and pristine seas won’t find a more beguiling destination than this. Finding information on Robinson Crusoe can often feel like searching for the island’s rumored treasure, so here’s our guide to planning your first trip.
When should I go to Isla Robinson Crusoe?
Robinson Crusoe lies in the Juan Fernández Archipelago, where it’s not uncommon to experience four seasons in one day. That said, the island does have slight seasonal changes.
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The average air temperature is 12°C (54°F) in winter (June to August), and 19°C (66°F) in summer (December to February), while water temperatures rise from a winter low of around 14°C (57°F) to a summer high of about 21°C (70°F).
October to March is peak fishing season when the majority of visitors arrive.
Early February is particularly appealing for the Rodeo de Villagra, when most of the 1000-odd residents abandon their homes in the sole town of San Juan Bautista to camp en masse at Villagra on the far side of the island.
Peak whale watching takes place in the shoulder seasons, and there are no commercial flights during the cold, wet winter months.
How much time should I spend on Isla Robinson Crusoe?
Most visitors spend at least five days on the island given the irregular flight schedules (there are usually two or three commercial flights each week).
Cancellations are not uncommon given the volatility of the weather; Robinson Crusoe is often battered by strong winds, so you’ll want to plan buffer days on either end of your trip.
Is it easy to get in and around Isla Robinson Crusoe?
Not really…but that’s the point! Robinson Crusoe is, in many ways, more isolated than Chile’s other remote island: Rapa Nui (Easter Island).
That’s because the two-hour flight from Santiago is on an eight-seat twinjet, which lands on a frighteningly small airstrip that is, itself, 45 minutes by boat from the island’s sole town.
Aerocardal and Aerolíneas ATA offer the only commercial flights, while Aerolassa runs charters.
You can also ply the South Pacific from Valparaíso with Vegvisir Sailing, which travels onward to Alejandro Selkirk Island.
Once in San Juan Bautista, you’ll use your own two feet for the rest of the trip, both for hiking and getting around town.
Alternatively, hotels can contact “island Ubers” to drive you down the handful of roads, which lead to restaurants or trailheads.
Top things to do on Isla Robinson Crusoe
Learn about the real Robinson Crusoe
Más a Tierra, known today as Robinson Crusoe, was the longtime home of one of the world’s most famous castaways, Scotsman Alexander Selkirk, who requested to be put ashore here in 1704 after ongoing disputes with his captain over the seaworthiness of the privateer Cinque Ports (it later sank!).
Selkirk would spend four years and four months marooned on the island before his eventual rescue.
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The story of his against-the-odds survival was widely publicized back in Britain, becoming one of the main sources of inspiration for Daniel Defoe’s adventure novel Robinson Crusoe published in 1719.
The remains of what is believed to be Selkirk’s old stone hut can be found near the present-day Mirador de Selkirk, just above San Juan Bautista.
Dive into island lore in San Juan Bautista
This island has played a key role in several other historic events. It was first claimed by Spain in 1749 with the construction of Fuerte Santa Bárbara, a stone fortification built to discourage pirates.
Decades later, the island became an Alcatraz-like political prison for patriots during Chile’s independence movement; they lived for several months in the Cuevas de los Patriotas, a series of damp caves.
During WWI, the island was the setting of the Battle of Más a Tierra, when a string of British naval vessels confronted the German cruiser Dresden.
The wreck of the Dresden now lies in Bahía Cumberland, while cannonballs remain lodged into the cliff walls on either end of town.
Taste the bounty of the surrounding seas
Robinson Crusoe might not have a supermarket, but it does have an ocean brimming with delicacies, including golden crab, rock lobster and yellowtail.
Seafood rules supreme at island restaurants, where you can find heaping fish platters, crab empanadas and the famed octopus sandwich pulpopleto (first created at El Terruño).
There’s even a craft brewery, Cerveza Artesana Archipiélago, that doubles as a restaurant with four-course beer-paired tasting menus.
Swim, snorkel or scuba dive with fur seals
The volcanic islands of Juan Fernández lie in a remote deep-sea environment with the highest level of endemism of any marine ecosystem on earth.
That’s why the coastline here is patrolled and protected as part of the largest network of marine protected areas in the South Pacific.
Intrepid divers come to Robinson Crusoe to scuba with huge schools of rare fish (there is an astounding 2.3 tons of fish per hectare!) on trips with companies like Marenostrum Expediciones.
Meanwhile, everyday snorkelers and swimmers ply the calm waters of Bahía Cumberland to bathe with hundreds of friendly and curious Juan Fernández fur seals.
Hike in Parque Nacional Archipiélago de Juan Fernández
Parque Nacional Archipiélago de Juan Fernández covers the entire island (save the aerodrome and San Juan Bautista). While longer treks require a certified guide, there are four half-day hikes that solo trekkers can tackle right from town.
The shortest – and most spectacular – takes you to Plazoleta El Yunque (1km/0.6 miles), the best-preserved patch of endemic forest, filled with rare ferns, feather palms and giant rhubarbs.
You can also climb up to sweeping overlooks like Mirador de Selkirk (2.5km/1.5 miles), Salsipuedes (2km/1.2 miles) and Cerro Centinela (2.5km/1.5 miles).
Buy some island-inspired art
Island intellectual Raimundo Bilbao hosts artists, scientists and creatives at a seafront arts residency called CasaIsla.
Visitors can stop by to purchase high-end Juan Fernández-inspired art to take home with them.
My favorite thing to do on Isla Robinson Crusoe
Most visitors take the 45-minute boat ride from the aerodrome over to San Juan Bautista. What I love instead is to chuck my suitcase on the boat and hike across the island with a local guide.
The 17km (11-mile) trail between the landing strip and town offers a crash course on island ecosystems.
You begin in a wind desert and gradually rise through bushy plains into a fern-filled forest before descending down to your hotel about five hours later.
How much money do I need for Isla Robinson Crusoe?
The most expensive part of traveling to Robinson Crusoe is the flight, which can cost up to CH$950,000 (US$1014).
Prices on island are similar to mainland Chile. There are no banks or ATMs, so you’ll want to bring plenty of pesos from the continent. Many establishments only accept cash or transfers.
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Camping: Free
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Basic hotel: CH$50,000 (US$53) per person, per night, including breakfast
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Higher-end hotel: CH$250,000 (US$267) for a double room, including breakfast
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Seafood dinner: CH$10,000–15,000 (US$10.67–16)
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Entrance to the national park: CH$10,400 (US$11.10)
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Guided excursions: from CH$25,000 (US$27)
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Two-tank dive: CH$95,000 (US$101)
What do I need to pack for Isla Robinson Crusoe?
Flights typically only allow 10kg (22lbs) of total luggage, so you’ll need to pack smart. Layers of outdoor clothing are key. Rain gear is a must, as is a windbreaker.
This is an island, so you’ll also want a bathing suit, hat and sunscreen. Just remember that, while the weather here can be extreme and unpredictable, it’s all part of the adventure!
How can I travel there responsibly?
Juan Fernández is a fragile archipelago, and its endemic flora is rapidly disappearing.
Several invasive animals, including cats, coatis, cows and goats, have contributed to the decline of native species like the Juan Fernández firecrown, a hummingbird whose numbers have fallen from as many as 10,000, in the 1970s, to about 400 today.
Invasive species also disperse the seeds of non-native plants – including mora, murta and maqui – which have greatly reduced the habitat of endemic species.
Travelers should clean their shoes before flying out to avoid introducing invasive plants.
It’s also great to speak with local conservationists from organizations like Oikonos and Island Conservation to learn how you might be able to donate your time or money to their causes.
