A first-time guide to Calgary, Alberta


It’s a missed opportunity made by far too many – land in Calgary and then immediately be shuttled off to the Canadian Rockies ever looming to the west, with Banff National Park being within 90 minutes. In reality, Calgary should carry equal weight within any Southern Alberta itinerary.

Very much a cosmopolitan city with the glacier-blue Bow River running through it and a soaring skyline – you can’t miss its red paint-topped Calgary Tower – there is also an undeniable friendliness to it all. This charm perhaps stems best from its reputation as “Cowtown” and “Stampede City” – consider Calgary to be Canada’s version of a metropolitan Wild West. It’s the heartbeat of Canada’s principal oil and gas producing province, it’s a cattle ranching capital and, for a major city, has an infectious, laid-back vibe.

Tell any Calgarian it’s your first time in the city, and you’ll be welcomed with open arms. As for making the most of that adventure, here’s what to know.

A fun fair with a Ferris wheel lit up at night at a busy event in a city
The Calgary Stampede takes place each year in July and attracts over 1 million visitors. Justin Foulkes/Lonely Planet

When should I go to Calgary?

June through August is summer, event-filled bliss. The Calgary Stampede is the city’s hallmark event, taking place in July. Billed as “the greatest outdoor show on earth,” it’s one of the largest outdoor rodeos in the world, attracting well over 1 million guests annually. You don’t have to be a rodeo lover to appreciate the citywide spectacle either – there are also entertaining Calgary-bred chuckwagon races, Indigenous community spotlights, farming exhibitions, mega-concerts, Midway food concoctions and more. High temperatures hover around 21ºC (70ºF) all summer long, making for big crowds and higher prices. For a bargain, eye the November to March timeframe – high temperatures peak around -1ºC (30ºF) and equate to lower city foot traffic, but nearby ski resorts are in their powdery prime.

How much time should I spend in Calgary?

A full three days or long weekend should be the minimum to experience Calgary’s cultural musts, including downtown museums, quiet neighborhood strolls and unique Western pizzazz. If you’re looking to pair your Calgary experience with a nearby ski day or two, five days should do it. Those seeking to tack on Banff and/or Jasper National Park excursions should plan for a week to 10 days.

Is it easy to get in and around Calgary?

You may see “YYC” floating on select business signage in Calgary and its surrounding confines. YYC is the airport code for Calgary International Airport, which is tucked approximately 20km (12 miles), which is a 20-minute drive, north of downtown. Taxis and rideshare services like Uber are ever-prevalent in Calgary and are the easiest way for getting in/out of the airport.

The city is walkable and bike-friendly. During colder weather, note the “Plus 15” system – it’s a 16km network of raised, covered and climate-controlled walkways to take advantage of. Scooters – from companies like Bird – are permitted with corrals stationed periodically for parking them. Calgary Transit is the city’s public transportation option, with bus and train routes (CTrain). Day passes and one-trip tickets are available, with free fares in select downtown areas. The YYC Transit app is the best for planning a route.

A parkland on the edge of a high-rise downtown of a city
Calgary’s Prince’s Island Park, on the Bow River, is the perfect place to wander. Shutterstock

Top things to do in Calgary

Stroll through the heart of the city

Tucked on the Bow River, Prince’s Island Park is as close to an outdoor museum as it gets. For an urban and educational adventure, within the park is the Chevron Learning Pathway, which explains the local wetlands landscape, wildlife and more with signage along the stroll. If hunger beckons in the park, River Café is regarded as one of the best restaurants in the country for its local and seasonally-focused fare. Calgary’s RiverWalk – which stretches approximately 4km (2.5 miles) between Chinatown and Stampede Park – has benches for scenic breathers and passes by the Confluence where the Bow and Elbow rivers meet.

Rock out at the National Music Centre

Studio Bell, home of the National Music Centre, is a work of art itself. Draped in gleaming terracotta tile, the museum spans five floors and is the home to the Canadian Music Hall of Fame. Taking a stroll through it, you learn just how many Canadian icons there are – Joni Mitchell, Avril Lavigne, Celine Dion, Bryan Adams, Neil Young and Justin Bieber among them. The complex houses some prized memorabilia, too, like one of Elton John’s famed songwriting pianos and Randy Bachman’s “American Woman” guitar. Across the street and if schedules align, catch a musical performance at the hotel-gone-venue, King Eddy. Famously, as part of a reconstruction project starting in 2013, it was taken apart and rebuilt brick-by-brick.

Smithbilt Hats Inc
Those white cowboy hats you see everywhere in Calgary? Smithbilt Hats is the place to buy ’em. Jesse Elliott, via Visit Calgary

Embrace the Western spirit

Sure, July’s Calgary Stampede is the time of the year when everyone in town is decked out in their boots, flannel shirts and cowboy hats. But you can get in on the spirit with a little cowboy-inspired shopping year-round. White cowboy hats are a cultural icon in Calgary – celebrities spanning Oprah Winfrey to the Dalai Lama have been gifted one when they visit the city. Smithbilt Hats has been the place to buy ‘em for more than 75 years. Beyond staple white cowboy hats with a red ribbon, they sell varieties in any color imaginable. For boots, Alberta Boot Co. is a true build-your-own experience with an on-site production shop. Shop for ready-built styles, or you can concoct your own boots from top-tier leathers, soles and stitching to be shipped to you at a later date.

Enjoy a glass floor view from the Calgary Tower

Arguably the city’s most iconic building, Calgary Tower includes the SKY 360 rotating restaurant, a Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse and an observation deck with glass floor nooks. From the observation deck of the 191m (627ft) structure, you feel like a skyscraper among the skyscrapers, with the Rocky Mountains zigzagging around you. It’s easily one of the best views offered in Calgary and – with the glass floor below – one of the most spine-tingling, too.

A horseback rider rides a brown horse bareback with crowds of onlookers in a stadium
The Stampede is one massive party, bringing a whole lot more than horseback riding to Calgary. Justin Foulkes/Lonely Planet

My favorite thing to do in Calgary

I’ve lived in Las Vegas, South Florida and Colombia – all places that know how to party. With that, the Calgary Stampede may be the biggest party I’ve ever experienced. The food was nuts – there was pizza topped with Cheetos and pickles. Nickelback, the Jonas Brothers and Motley Crue were all performing. Everyone – absolutely everyone – was dressed like a cowboy or cowgirl, and there wasn’t a single soul in bad spirits. Align your first visit to Calgary with the Stampede, if you can.

Beyond the perfectly timed trip, I’ve enjoyed simply gawking at Calgary’s skyline. For such a bustling city, there is a calmness to it all. Rocky Mountain Sidecar Adventures offers some cool packages where a motorcycle driver ushers you around the city for a tour as you coast along beside them in a sidecar. Your helmet is equipped with a microphone and audio. On this tour or not, my favorite stop for taking it all in is Scotsman’s Hill, overlooking Scotiabank Saddledome, where the beloved Flames play hockey.

OEB Breakfast Co.
Start the day with eggs benedict at OEB Breakfast Co. Tatum Morley, via Visit Calgary

Where should I eat in Calgary?

Breakfast: OEB Breakfast Co. is Canada-renowned for its eggs benedict interpretations, which may include truffled squash of Korean bulgogi. Galaxie Diner serves all-day breakfast with a 1940s diner flair – count on unlimited hashbrowns and toast with your meal.

Lunch: Class Clown Hamburgers has an intimate bar and smashed Alberta beef patties. Ten Foot Henry has a vegetable-focused spread with gems like locally grown marinated beets and a pea purée topped mushroom medley. On the non-vegetable spectrum, its truffle Dijon-flared striploin steak satisfies.

Dinner: Caesar’s Steakhouse has been a Calgary staple since 1972. Emitting an old-school vibe with gleaming wood walls and red booths, steaks are cooked over an open flame in the dining room for all to gawk at. Major Tom is tucked on the 40th floor of a skyscraper with panoramic views. For its Alberta beef selections and creative shareables – like potato doughnuts with a gouda custard – it is a Calgary staple.

Drinks: No Calgary trip is complete without dabbling in its two most famous homegrown alcoholic concoctions. The first, the Caesar, resembles a Bloody Mary but is made with Clamato juice. It was invented at what is the present-day Westin Calgary. The second, the Shaft, was invented at the Living Room. It includes a balance of Kahlua, skim milk and espresso and is traditionally downed via a straw in a couple of quick slurps.

How much money do I need for Calgary?

Bargains and luxe experiences alike are found in the majority of Calgary’s neighborhoods. Chinatown is stellar for on-the-fly and cheaper bites, inclusive of the Calgary-born ginger beef. 17th Ave is another walkable area with experiences catering to any budget, be it vintage shops or higher-end boutiques. The bottom line: just keep strolling – be it in Kensington, Inglewood, Marda Loop or somewhere in between – and there will be a budgetary fit.

  • Hostel room: $45-60
  • Basic room for two: $100–150
  • Airbnb: $150–200
  • Day pass on Calgary Transit: $11.60
  • A cup of coffee: $4
  • A classic hamburger made with Alberta beef: $15
  • Dinner for two at Major Tom with cocktails: $130
  • A post-dinner Caesar or Shaft: $12



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