Croda Business Development Manager on geo-skin care, eco-sound extraction technique

During NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, Croda showcased several recent ingredient innovations, including Phytessence Osmanthus, with “proven antioxidant and soothing properties [to] protect the skin from the harmful effects of heat, reduce redness and soothe the skin after sunburn,” according to Croda’s website. “It’s the ideal ingredient for geo-care routines, especially those aimed at protecting the skin from excessive exposure to the sun’s rays,” the website explained.  

COSMOS-approved Eco-sound extraction is “an extraction assisted by ultrasound based on the principle of sonoporation (ultrasound-mediated cell membrane permeability),” as detailed on Croda’s website, where “ultrasonic waves create cavitation bubbles formed near vegetable membranes that swell throughout compression/dilatation cycles to reach a critical size and implode,” and “this implosion produces liquid micro-jets transporting gas and heat that generates high shear forces able to perforate cell membranes.” As a result, “plant cells disintegrate and their metabolites are released in the solvent” for the ingredient extraction, the website confirmed.  

Eco-sound extraction is particularly sustainable because of its low energy consumption, which results in low CO2 emissions. As Yip explained, through the process, Croda can reduce its carbon footprint in alignment with its overall sustainability goals, which it hopes to achieve by 2030.

Phytessence Osmanthus’s eco-responsible ingredient profile also fits into the current market landscape of the beauty industry. “It hits all of the trends,” said Yip, as “the climate is changing as we know and a lot of our younger consumers have this passion about climate change…as climate change is occurring and the heat index is increasing, because of this impact we’re seeing more skin damage from sun burns, and this ingredient fits quite nicely with that trend and seeing a reduction of the impact of that heat.” 

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